Wednesday, May 23, 2018

Visiting Three Little Tuscan Towns

"Bagno Vignoni was a halting and refreshment point centuries ago
for numerous pilgrims (including Saint Catherine of Siena) who traveled
the Via Francigena on their way to Rome."

After our wonderfully BUSY two days in Assisi, today was a day to sleep in, relax and stay close to home (at Sassaia).  We decided to visit three near-by and charming medieval towns:

BAGNO VIGNONI:  This town's main piazza is most unusual. It consists of a huge rectangular pool, completely filled with water bubbling up from hot springs whose therapeutic quality has been renowned since antiquity.  I was surprised this visit to see that the pool contained a special temporary exhibit ... a public art installation consisting of about 50 mirrored metal circles that reflect the movement of the water and allow observers to see the water and sky in new & interesting ways.



We walked through the town to its beautiful park overlooking the amazing Val d'Orcia's gently rolling hills, vineyards, cypresses and olive groves.  Sat down on the rocks, rolled up our pant legs and soaked our bare feet in the warm, clear thermal stream.   Ahhhhhh, delightful. 

When returning to our car, we happened upon Jesus & Gladys who reminded us that, unless we had "Star Trek Beam Me Up" power, we'd best get moving towards our 2:30 pm lunch reservation in Monticchiello!


MONTICCHIELLO:  Certainly one of our all-time favorite little Tuscan towns, where we enjoyed many happy and delicious meals at Osteria La Porta in 2015.  All 13 of our Week 1 guests were there, seated at a long table on the beautiful terrace, chatting happily away about their morning adventures.  La Porta's lovely owner, Daria, welcomed us back warmly and a pretty young waitress named Cristina took our orders for delicious spinach/ricotta raviolis with marscapone & black truffle sauce, salads, soups, local handmade pici pasta with wild boar, lamb or ragu sauces  ... and the always amazing "Beef Cheeks" with red wine sauce and mashed potatoes.  Hank Edwards, self-proclaimed "meat and potatoes guy," gave the beef cheeks high marks .... Mary McAndrew, though reluctant to eat something called Beef Cheeks (!), took a taste and gave them a thumbs up. Toward the end of the meal, there was a brief summer rainstorm ... the big white terrace umbrellas protected most of us from its drips and drops!  I was delighted to have a chance to meet Daria's 2-year old granddaughters, Mia & Naomi, whom she was "expecting" when we last visited in Sept 2015.
Week 1 Lunch at La Porta, Monticchiello

Since we'd scheduled our La Porta lunch for mid-afternoon, the town shops were open for browsing when we finished.  Had great fun selecting some pretty Tuscan linens in Massimo's sweet little shop and some journals and note cards in another.   Since the days last so long here this time of year (sunset at almost 9 pm), we still had time to explore nearby Pienza!

PIENZA:  Visible across the valley from La Porta's terrace, Pienza is only
about a (beautiful) 20-minute drive from Monticchiello.  Found a parking spot not far from the city gate, figured out how to work the parking payment machine (!) and walked into the city where, in the 15th century, Renaissance town-planning precepts were first put into practice by Pope Pius II.  Visited the Church of San Francesco (with a relic of thread from his habit on the altar) and Santa Maria Assunta, and walked along the magnificent path atop the town walls. Breathtaking views and, on the drive home, we were treated to a great sunset!


Joined the rest of our fun Week 1 clan for leftovers .... Caroline's homemade spaghetti sauce was delicious.   Lots of fun chatter, lots of tasty wine, many new friendships being born in this relaxed, beautiful setting. 

1 comment:

Unknown said...

Your descriptions rival a Rick Steves guidebook! Makes me want to fly over immediately and join you!